The-Artistic-Garden's Blog

Though Peat Moss Is An Important Ingredient
In A Hypertufa Recipe
Will Wood Shavings Prove To Be
An Acceptable Replacement?

I received this email from Sandy who asked:

Hi: I was so excited to find your site. Years ago I read a small article in a magazine about making hypertufa planters. I am so glad I didn’t get around to trying it until now. I wouldn’t have had a clue about half the stuff your website has explained!!

I do have a question for you. In one of your articles you explain about using coir in hypertufa recipes. Is it possible to substitute wood shavings (like the kind for small animal bedding) for the peat moss ? I know it wouldn’t be “true” hypertufa but do you think the results would be satisfactory ? Thanks, Sandy

My reply:
I’m glad you found my site. I hope you will find my projects and recipes to be of great help.

About the wood shavings, I’ve never personally used them myself, but am aware of others doing so. Their success came from what I will share here with you. There are some things to keep in mind when using them, so make note of the following:

—yes you can substitute the shavings for the peat moss–just do not use both in a recipe

—I’ve seen more mention of folks using sawdust as opposed to shavings

—it is suggested to NOT use perlite or vermiculite in a recipe using shavings or sawdust as these also absorb water (which can cause recipe failure)

—do NOT used treated lumber!

—your “shavings” cannot be too large … think of the consistency of peat moss. Many people even go a step further to sift down the peat to use only the finest siftings. Other folks use a blender to pulverize the peat into very very fine pieces if they don’t want one single little lump. So, what I am getting at is you can’t use big shavings. Then again (don’t remember right now the size of pet bed shavings), I highly suggest you first experiment with a recipe using shavings.

—remember that the whole idea of using peat moss is that it decomposes over time, leaving the pits and crevices that real Tufa rock has. The shavings will also decompose over time … so again I come back to the fact that large shavings MAY (notice I say “may”) ultimately leave holes that are too big and ultimately your object will fall apart.

—be very mindful of the ratio of water due to the fact the shavings will absorb a lot of water and in the long run this can goof up the cure and your object will more than likely fall apart . Refer to my page about mixing and such: Mixing Guidelines

—write down your hypertufa recipe’s ratios, etc so that you can see what was correct or what wasn’t correct (successful project versus failure). Keeping notes is really a good idea.

And please review my curing instructions – the correct curing procedure is as vitally important as a properly concocted recipe: Successful Hypertufa Curing Instructions

As I mention all over my website … practice first on smaller objects! And “patience is a virtue”!! You might be successful with your first attempt and then again, you might have to experiment a number of times.

That is about all I can think of right now to share with you for your hypertufa recipe’s success. Good luck!

Where Can I Find Recipes & Instructions
To Make An Aged Looking Trough?

I received this email from Stephen who asked:

Dear Artistic Gardener: This is from Sheffield England. Please could you advise me on the “wooden former”, concrete mix, possible wall thickness and dimensions and possible type of chicken wire as strengthener to make a concrete “aged type trough”?

I am referring to what was used as animal water troughs in England long ago. I want to make mine to hold plants. Yours sincerely,
Stephen

My reply:

Hello Stephen:

Thank you for contacting me. I believe the information you want can be found on the 4 Basic Hypertufa Recipes page and the instructions for How To Make A Hypertufa Trough.

I guess you overlooked that information on my site. I have many more pages of information that will be of interest to you about working with hypertufa.

Please go to my main hypertufa page. And then go all the way to the bottom of the page – you’ll see links to all the other pages of information. Note that the very last link is how to age troughs with moss.

I sure hope this helps. Good luck with your project. 

Tips When Adding A New Layer Of Wet ‘Tufa
Over A Dried Layer

I received an email from Regina who asked:

Can we add fresh hypertufa to an existing, partially cured layer that also has a few cracks on the top half? And should we use bonding agent? Thank you, Regina

My reply:

Hi Regina:

Yes you sure can … it is advisable to dampen the existing ‘tufa, then paint on the bonding agent and then add your fresh ‘tufa. Many crafters certainly will also add some bonding agent into the new hypertufa. Just make sure to adjust your liquid ratio accordingly.

And please know that the cracks you are getting aren’t a “bad” thing … in projects like large spheres, you will almost invariably get cracks. And that’s OK. That is why most people figure on doing at least 2 layers.

Hope this helps. Sounds like you are having some success now  Keep me posted.

Hypertufa Project Tips
Is It Possible To Hasten The Cure Time For Hypertufa??

I received an email from Beth who asked:

I am just beginning in learning hypertufa, actually in the process of collecting my ingredients to get started. Anyway I have read a mixture of vinegar and water would speed up the curing process. Any truth to that or is it better just to wait the 30 days for the curing? Also how safe is it to handle once it has cured? Many thanks! Beth

My reply:

Hi Beth:
I have addressed the vinegar issue on my webpage: Hypertufa Curing Guidelines (look at the very bottom) and personally I wouldn’t use vinegar.

Most successful ‘tufa makers use good ‘ol water to leach out the lime. Refer to the information in my curing page and you’ll do just fine!

Also, hypertufa is safe to handle after a proper cure.

Good luck with your project!