I received an email from Julie asking me:

Hi, my friend and I made our first hypertufa batches the other night, using a couple of your recipes, and want to make more.

My question: I want to put some glass stones and other things like nails on the outside of some pots and balls but am afraid they will fall out. If I put a binder in the mix will that keep the stones etc. attached?

Thanks for all your help! Julie

My reply:

Hi Julie:
Thank you for contacting me and I can answer your question – you don’t really have to add a binder into the recipe. Most crafters don’t. They just push/squish their chosen objects into the wet hypertufa or concrete.

Most embellishments – stones, marbles, mirror pieces, etc. – will stay “stuck”. But nothing is 100% fool-proof, so if some do end up falling out, use a little silicone caulk (or epoxy glue suitable for your project – i.e. glass and concrete) to stick them back. Just make sure you do give each item a good “push” into the wet ‘tufa or concrete.

That’s all there is to it. Good luck!!

~~~

And hey everyone … check out this idea for your next hypertufa or concrete project!

I found this great project the other day while I was surfing around online, and I would encourage you to read Kathy Cano-Murillo’s instructions for her concrete coasters project.

She explains how to glue pictures onto the back of clear glass pebbles before embedding them into wet concrete. How cool! And how easy!

This crafty idea CERTAINLY can be used to embellish larger garden art items, like hypertufa or concrete troughs, spheres … whatever! But I love her coaster idea. As a matter of fact … I always encourage new crafters to mix up small batches of ‘tufa or ‘crete recipes, in order to get the hang of working with the stuff – to make sure they are getting the ratios of ingredients right, how long it takes to cure, things like that.

Kathy’s project would certainly be a great one to try with hypertufa, too. You could make coasters, or perhaps small garden plaques. That way, if you are trying a small test batch because you’re new to working with hypertufa (or concrete) … if you had success then you’d have a nifty item to put in your garden, or something to give away as a gift.

Anyway … making sure your embellishments stay stuck really isn’t a major concern. So go ahead, and try adding something fun or whimsical to your next garden art project!

I recevied an email from Donna asking me a simple question:

Can hypertufa be used to face a vertical wall?

My reply:

Hi Donna:
Thanks for asking me about this, and yes! You sure can use hypertufa to face a wall. This would certainly be a very doable hypertufa project that shouldn’t require too much “skill” – meaning this won’t require an advanced ‘tufa technique.

But, I need to know more in order to make sure about a few things … such as what is the wall made from? Brick, or concrete blocks? Or something else?? Are these walls outside in your garden, or inside a home or other structure?? (For now I will assume you mean a garden wall.)

Reason I ask is depending on the material of the wall’s surface, it might change the ingredients in the hypertufa recipe and/or application method. But if your wall is made from bricks or concrete blocks, from my research (I’ve never faced a wall with hypertufa) you will definitely want to wet down the wall’s surface; apply a liberal coating of a bonding agent to the surface; and use a hypertufa recipe that also has bonding agent added to it.

I can assure you that wetting down the wall surface is important, just like it is important when adding more hypertufa to an already cured area of ‘tufa. Wetting the surface is an important step.

This is bare-bones information, but without knowing all the particulars, this info should get you pointed in the right direction. Does this help you?

~~~

Donna replied:

Thanks for the answer, Claudia. I’ll try to clarify my question a little but I like your answer.

We’re building a new house with an enclosed atrium. The walls haven’t actually been built yet but the contractor wants to face it with a concrete material like Hardyplank and then put some kind of stucco material over that to make it look like a rock cliff.

I want to allow plants to grow on the wall and thought a hypertufa “stucco” would work better than a plain concrete stucco. The contractor is concerned about the hypertufa being as durable as conventional concrete in this instance.

In your opinion would we use the hypertufa just like conventional concrete – over a expanded metal base used as the “support”?

Thanks again for your help. Donna

~~~

I answered back:

Hi Donna:

The contractor is concerned about the hypertufa being as durable as conventional concrete in this instance. In your opinion would we use the hypertufa just like conventional concrete – over a expanded metal base used as the “support”?

Hypertufa being durable? Well, if it is mixed up in proper proportions and cured correctly, and if you’ve added reinforcing poly fibers (as one example) … heck! It is incredibly durable & most likely would last for goodness knows how many eons!

Plus, now that I understand that the hypertufa is going to be applied to the INTERIOR walls of your atrium (I’m jealous … an antrium! You lucky duck!!) the walls are protected from the “abuse” of the outside elements. That in itself should prove to help add to the longevity of the hypertufa.

If you’ve not yet looked at, or downloaded a copy of this very thorough stain and colorant chart that is on my website, please do so – it will be an immense help to you: Hypertufa & Concrete Stains Chart. You’ll see the link to open the chart about 1/2 way down the page.

About coloration: think carefully about the desired COLOR you want when you’re done. Peat moss is already “dark” by itself, and then you’ll have the grey portland cement. You really might want to use white portland with a colorant to lighten up the walls in your atrium. And be aware that the peat moss is going to be visible.

Also remember that the peat moss is meant to decompose over time, so that ultimately you replicate real Tufa rock. That’s the whole idea of people making things with a hypertufa recipe. But decomposition happens for objects like troughs or planters that are outside in a garden 24/7. In your situation, the hypertufa is not going to be affected by “normal” outdoor weather and seasonal conditions.

However, maybe over many years the peat moss will decompose in the planter pockets you’ll be fashioning – because when you water the plants, the water will cause the ‘tufa to slowly decompose … the peat moss in the walls might not. Unless you can hose them down?? Are you having a brick or pebble based floor with floor drains so that watering your plants and having to be “careful” with puddles isn’t an issue??

See where I’m going with this? I don’t see why a hypertufa recipe couldn’t be used. BUT!! I have NEVER done this myself; nor do I personally know anyone who has done this, so that I could pick their brain for you!! I say this to protect myself with the suggestions I’ve given you. Your common sense and more research into the best recipe; proper sub-surface for application; thickness of hypertufa to be applied … all that is up to you.

If I were you I’d experiment on practice boards with a few recipes using grey and white portland cement; maybe different colorants, etc. and let it cure so you really know what the final outcome will be color-wise! I’d hate to think you get the room done, and about a week later when the walls are getting dry, you say “Egad … I really don’t like what this looks like!!”

This is one of the more unusual hypertufa projects I’ve been asked about, but it should prove to be a wonderful addition to your home. I’d say “Go for it!”

Good luck!

Ken emailed and asked:

Is hypertufa a good choice for construction material for a waterfall? Is it waterproof enough to withstand the constant exposure to water?

Because of it’s easy use, I would like to build the spillways out of hypertufa. Please advise.

My reply:
Hello Ken:
Thank you for contacting me and I can tell you that hypertufa may not be the “best” choice for the spillways. I am not saying don’t use it, but be very aware that the peat moss in ‘tufa is meant to decompose, leaving the pits and crevices and tiny HOLES that is inherent in real Tufa rock.

So …. what if a hole or crevice ends up in not the best spot, and you have a leakage problem on-up-the-road? Think about that. Perhaps using a concrete recipe would do you better in the long run.

But! It doesn’t mean not to use it. I am just telling you of a potential issue to consider. I am aware of people using hypertufa for spillways, however I have NO knowledge of how long their project held up.

If your recipe is properly concocted, and you allow the spillways to cure properly before subjecting them to 24/7 water exposure, you should have no problems. But of course everything hinges upon your attention to details and level of expertise for a project like this.

You might also want to apply a good quality water-proofing sealant … again making sure everything has cured and dried properly before sealing and letting the water flow.

**And don’t forget about the alkalinity issues that can adversely affect (kill) pond fish and plants. Again … cure it properly. I have written an article that will give you more information on this issue: Hypertufa Curing tips for Ponds & Waterfalls.

Good luck!

I received an email from Gabriella asking:

Hi Claudia, I was wondering if your Hypertufa How-To eBook includes sources for supplies? I am having a hard time finding perlite. Thanks, Gabriella

My reply:
Hi Gabriella:
Thanks for contacting me – I can help steer you in the right driection to find perlite.

Perlite is not hard to find if you know where to look. I will assume you live in the USA or Canada. You can find perlite in the indoor gardening area of Home Depot, Lowe’s or even Wal-Mart, as example.

It is usually sold in a smallish-sized bag for around $4.00 per bag (I bought a bag last year–can’t remember the exact price.)

You should also be able to find it in any gardening store that sells potting soils, etc. And you can also find a number of online sources, just search for “buy perlite online”.

But, for those folks who are looking for vermiculite … well that stuff is getting tougher or almost impossible to find. The reason? The contaminant ASBESTOS is sometimes found in vermiculite and we all know that back in the early 1990′s the health hazards of inhaling asbestos became a hot topic and very much talked about publically.

The vermiculite mine in Libby, Montana supplied about 80% of the world’s supply and in 1990 guess what? You got it … they got shut down because of all the health risks attributed to asbestos. As a matter of fact, sadly many of the Libby town residents suffered “vermiculite-related” illnesses due to living within the vicinity of the mining operations and inhaling the asbestos.

So … stick with perlite in your hypertufa recipes and you’ll be fine!

And yes, my Hypertufa eBook does discuss how to find some of the harder-to-find supplies and it has a lot more information on all aspects of working with ‘tufa.

I hope this helps you and if you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Hi, Thanks for the reply. Do you know where I can find larger bags of the perlite? I live in Wisconsin. Thanks

My reply:
Hi again Gabriella:
I suggest you Google “perlite” and you’ll get lots of search options. Plus, by performing the search yourself, you will get suppliers’ ads that are targeted to your area and/or to Wisconsin. There might be a local supplier where you can get larger quantities.

It looks like there are many online suppliers, of course what they charge is the big question!

Good luck!

I received this email:

My 14-year old pond is showing signs of wear … the initial waterfall & trough were made of dyed concrete supplemented with mountain rocks. The concrete has some cracks and the mortar between the rocks is pulling away.

Can hypertufa be used to make repairs and rework my filter’s waterfall coming out of a larger filter so that it would appear similar to the original rock/mortar work? I’d like to purchase your Hypertufa How-To eBook, but I’d like to know if hypertufa is the correct medium to use or should I return to a portland/sand mix?

Also I’d like to supplement the large rocks with more faux rock. Thanks for your help.

My reply:
Hi:
These are some good questions and I’ll do my best to steer you in the right direction.

About hypertufa, the first thing I want to say is the whole purpose of using a hypertufa recipe is to replicate real Tufa rock. Peat moss is an all important ingredient in hypertufa recipes because over time, the peat moss decomposes and leaves pits and crevices like you find in real Tufa rock.

So … the use of hypertufa to make rocks will end up looking a bit different from the dyed concrete rocks and mountain rocks you currently have. I’m not saying this is a “bad thing” … just depends how similar you wish to match the job.

The other issue that comes to mind is the fact you said dyed concrete – can you replicate the color in whatever recipe you concoct to make new rocks and/or do the patch work?

But all this being said, sure you can certainly use hypertufa to spruce up everything. ‘Tufa can be colored with different colorants, and you can use white Portland cement if need be to better achieve a specific color. (However be aware it might be hard to find in your area.)

Here’s great info on concrete and hypertufa colorants sitting on my website: concrete and hypertufa colorant guides. Scroll down about half-way on the page to find the link to the PDF colorant guides.

I also have a hypertufa mortar recipe that goes beyond a plain portland & sand mix that you might find useful. Here’s the link: hypertufa mortar recipe.

Here’s a faux rock recipe that is great for projects like yours where constant contact with moisture is an issue: faux rock recipe.

And make sure to use a bonding agent on the “old” surfaces before you apply the new mixture, whether it be hypertufa or a concrete mixture.

That’s about it in a nutshell. This project more than likely will be a bit more complicated than just a simple “slap & patch” job.  

Oh … I do have more information in my Hypertufa How-To Manual about making forms for larger rocks and boulders.

Good luck with your project!

A reader asked:

On your The-Artistic-Garden website under ‘Painting Techniques’ there is a close-up photo showing verdigris colouration. There is a design on the planter. How did you accomplish this?

And, is there any other way to decorate a hypertufa pot except by painting it? Can you draw on it before it cures or somehow sculpture a design on it?

I answered:

Oh yes you can decorate the outside of a ‘tufa pot. The easiest way is to carve or sculpt into it. Just make sure you make the sides of your item thick enough to carve into if you want to produce a really deep textured or carved design.

Or, after it is partially cured, you can add other raised details or embellishments made from a freshly mixed up batch of ‘tufa onto the item. Just make sure to wet down the main item; “paint” on a liberal coat of bonding agent onto the area(s) where you’ll be applying the new ‘tufa pieces; and make sure you’ve added bonding agent into the new batch of hypertufa.

Here’s a page I wrote about sculpting in hypertufa that will give you some more ideas, and a recipe (though you can sculpt in any ‘tufa recipe – just depends on what you’re making, it’s size and such that will determine what recipe might be best for your purposes): Hypertufa Sculptures.

In reference to the raised design on the planter (here’s the photo referred to) – it was already part of the pot.

That planter is one of those polyresin pots – very light-weight but water tight. I love these type of pots as not only can you paint them if you wish, but they are very lightweight because the polyresin is a very lightweight material. This sure makes these pots a little easier to move around once they’re filled with dirt and plants … especially if you are into LARGE pots like I am.

Polyresin pots are great for those of us living in climates that have freezing temperatures, as they can be left outdoors in all seasons without the worry of cracking like almost all real terra cotta pots do (except the very pricey Italian terra cotta).

“Beaverlake” asked me:

Your DIY garden art projects website is great!! Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences with us newbies. I made my first hypertufa trough a few weeks ago at a workshop my garden club held. Now my head is spinning with ideas, but now it is so cold outside in the state where I live.

Can I make a hypertufa project in the basement and let it cure there during the winter?

My reply:

Hi Beaverlake:
Thanks for the kind words. I do try to offer easy to follow and thorough info on my website.

To answer your questions:

1) Yes, you can make ‘tufa or concrete items in your basement but first, a little warning – please make sure when you are measuring out the Portland cement that you don’t get the dust all over the place. Cement dust is NOT a nice thing to get tracked all over the place. (Wear your dust mask and gloves too!!)

Next, you MUST have the basement/room temperature above 50 degrees minimum at all times in order that your item cures properly. Below 50 – don’t bother trying a project – it won’t cure. It will take longer to cure, too. So you’ve gotta be patient! 

With a room temperature that’s between 50 – 70 degrees .. the item still will take a little longer to cure. But lots of crafters do ‘tufa projects in their basements, so I’d say go ahead if you don’t want to wait until Springtime.

Good luck!

Beaverlake wrote back:

Thanks for the information. I will start with small hollow spheres next weekend. It’s going to be a long winter. We are having our first snow storm as I type.

Thanks for the information.

Note: the information about growing moss also pertains to almost any porous material – such as clay or terra cotta pots.

I received this email from Stephen who asked:

Dear Artistic Gardner: This is from Sheffield England. Please could you advise me on the “wooden former”, concrete mix, possible wall thickness and dimensions and possible type of chicken wire as strengthener to make a concrete “aged type trough” or what was had in England where old stone sinks werer used for outdoor water and plant features. Yours sincerely, Stephen

My reply:

Hello Stephen:
Thank you for contacting me. The information to help you can be found on the 4 Basic Hypertufa Recipes page and the instructions for How To Make A Hypertufa Trough.

I have many more pages of information on hypertufa (and concrete, too if that might interest you) that will be helpful to you about the ins-and-outs of working with hypertufa. Please go to my main hypertufa page: www.the-artistic-garden.com/hypertufa.html. Then go all the way to the bottom of the page – you’ll see links to all the other pages of ‘tufa information.

About how to age a hypertufa garden art item – I will assume you want moss to begin growing. You can find my suggested recipes and how-to tips on this age hypertufa troughs with moss web page.

Growing the moss isn’t hard … it’s the patience and time it takes that is!

I hope this helps. Good luck with your project.

I received an email asking:

Help me please! I am wondering if you can describe hypertufa to me — like how it feels, looks, etc. I am doing a report about the Roman Coliseum and the interior was made partly with ‘tufa and I need to describe it so can you help?

I replied:

Hi:
First, let me steer you straight on one very important thing — “hypertufa” is NOT what the Romans utilized as a building material.

They used real Tufa rock, which was quite abundant, and still to this day can be seen in many structures in Rome and the surrounding area. So … I also encourage you to search the phrase “Tufa rock” in Google or other search engines, and read up on the real product made by Mother Nature.

As far as the concoction called “hypertufa”, that is something that is man made from various ingredients and it was developed to REPLICATE real Tufa rock.

To help you learn about it, I will direct you over to my website where I have many pages of specific information on hypertufa, and since you say you want to SEE what it looks and feels like, I will send you to this page – watch this mixing hypertufa recipes video.

And then I suggest you watch this how to make a hypertufa trough video, too.

Also, check out all the hypertufa pages on my website. If all this doesn’t provide answers for you, then come back and ask for more help.

Good luck with your report.

Korenv posted and asked me:

Hello, I’ve just completed my hypertufa sphere project, as per your hollow sphere instructions on The-Artistic-Garden website.

It’s in the process of curing. I made one before this using a liquid cement colorant, which was alright, but a little drab. On my current sphere, I’d like to use paint to give it a “rustic” finish. What should I use? I’m hoping I can use ordinary acrylic paints. Can I also use a water based sealer?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! Korenv

My reply:

Hi Korenv:
Gee that’s great! You’ve got a successful sphere project in the works!

About what to use — have you read over the Hypertufa & Concrete Stains & Colorant Guides yet?

Scroll about half-way down that page and you’ll see the PDF icon — click on that and the guides will open up. BTW, feel free to print out a copy for future reference.

Maybe you know this, but I’ll mention it just in case … if you used grey portland, well that does tend to make colorants that you add into the recipe look drab. But if you can find white portland, that will allow any colorant added into the hypertufa (or concrete) recipe to be “truer” in color. Of course you still have the dark peat moss if using a ‘tufa recipe, but white portland sure can make a difference!

As far as a topical paint or stain … sure, water based acrylic or latex paint is quite alright, along with a water based sealant. **Just make sure your sphere is good and cured (dry) before you paint the surface.

Hmmmmm … to get a “rustic” look … do you mean sort of like rusted metal? Sorry, when you say rustic that’s what comes to my mind. I’m not sure if you’re also asking for ideas on paint colors/colorations to use??

Let me know what else you might need clarified and I’ll be happy to try and help. Thanks for stopping by.

Chinarabbit then asked a lot of good questions:

Hey, I’d like to know a little more about “water-based sealant” ….. sounds pretty high-tech. Are there any more primitive alternatives? something more basic? anything else that might work? such as a clear laquer? or will any can of clear spray finish do the trick, such as car finish or something ?

I think I have white portland cement I intend to dye, but I would like to add finishing touches with an airbrush, to get a realistic effect. And it needs to be water-proof. Any water-based acrylic or latex-based paint will work equally well because the sealant will seal the paint under a “clear-coat” with the sealant, is that right? So airbrushing would be fine as long as you use a sealant over the top?

Will the sealant give it a glossy look? i would prefer a flat non-glossy sealant that is really quite invisible, just kind of weatherproofs the paint … is that the best for surfaces that maybe be submerged in water, such as under waterfalls? or would it really better to have the color mixed in to withstand the constant flow of water?

I see now that you recommend 2 coats of clear acrylic or urethane finish from a spray can, is that right? And will it be fine for protecting delicate airbrush designs under water? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

My reply:

hey, I’d like to know a little more about “water-based sealant” ….. sounds pretty high-tech.

No, nothing fancy, just means you can clean up your brushes and such with water and soap. As opposed to oil-based paints and sealants.

You can buy low-gloss on up to high gloss clear coats/sealants. Just depends what brand you are looking at. And some (like Krylon) come in spray cans, and other brands you paint on. Any brand should work, as long as it is meant for outdoor use AND is compatible with the paint you are using for air-brushing or top coating with. I guess just read all the info on the can labels, or pick the brains of the folks in the paint department!

About something “more primitive” … you’ve got me on that one? I guess a matte finish as opposed to a gloss finish would be more primitive … in other words, not noticieable that you’d used a sealant.

And I’d suggest at least 2 coats. You say it will be under water … again, double check the specific uses for all the paints and sealants you’ll be using to make sure they can withstand 24/7 contact with water.

Hope this information helps!