The-Artistic-Garden's Blog

Sometimes These 2 Ingredients are Hard to Get Your Hands On

I often get asked by many hypertufa and concrete garden art enthusiasts where to find “silica fume” and “poly fibers”, also referred to as “fiber mesh”. Depending where you live, it may or may not be very easy to lay your hands on this stuff.

PLEASE NOTE! Silica fume is sometimes confused with fumed silica (also known as colloidal silica and pyrogenic silica). These materials have different derivations, technical characteristics, and applications. Silica fume is very fine like beach sand and completely black.

Silica fume and poly fibers are used as strengtheners, normally referred to as fortifying agents. They help make your cured hypertufa or concrete object stronger. Often, you’ll want to use one or the other for items such as stepping stones or very thin spheres. I do have some recipes sitting on my website that I’ll refer you to, in case you aren’t familiar with recipes and/or projects that utilize silica fume or poly fibers. Here are three of them:

Hypertufa Recipe Using Fiber Mesh (Poly fibers)  (refer to last recipe on the page)
Hypertufa Sculpture Recipe
Concrete Recipe For Very Thin-walled Spheres

How to Locate Silica Fume and/or Poly Fibers

My first suggestion is to call commercial concrete supply companies in your area. Many times they will have either fortifier, and will be willing to sell you a couple of pounds. (You don’t need much of either one in a recipe – unless I guess you’re making something collosal in size! ).

I’ve even read of people walking away with some for free, after explaining to the sales people what they will be doing with the silica fume or poly fibers. Seems the sales people get a kick hearing that Portland cement is going to be mixed with peat moss and water to make an odd concoction called hypertufa!

My next suggestion is to do what else … that’s right, find suppliers who sell via their online store. In doing a Google search today, I found EpoxyUSA.com carries poly fibers for a very reasonable price on the Fillers-Thickeners webpage. Note – I have no affiliation nor experience ordering from them. Perhaps you should contact them first to check shipping charges, etc. before you order. But I’ll wager a guess they are legitimate and probably fine to deal with.

Finding silica fume online seems to be more of a daunting task. I did find this link to the SilicaFume.org webpage. If nothing else, call them and see where you can purchase a small quantity online.

So, there you have it. I hope I’ve helped you locate two ingredients that do help make a difference in strengthening concrete and hypertufa recipes.

Concrete Pre-Mix Products vs. A “Make It From Scratch” Recipe

I received an email from “Stoner” asking me:

I have been using a regular pre bagged “sand mix” cement for my concrete leaves. Is there a benefit to using something that I mix together myself ? Thanks. Stoner

My reply:

Hi Stoner:

Well, not necessarily. I mean, if you are very successful with and happy with the results of using the premix … “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!”  But of course, mixing your own ‘tufa or concrete recipe(s) allows you to tweak it, so that the recipe accomplishes what you want it to “do”.

Such as – maybe you want a really thin, yet very strong leaf casting. In this case, you might want to use an even finer sand than what comes in your premix, etc.

And then of course, you might want to add reinforcing fibers or a bonding agent, but of course that could be added into your premix.

I guess the point is, “it all depends” upon your desired outcome.

And perhaps mixing up your own might be a cost savings … don’t know what you’re paying for premix versus non-premix.

Good luck with all your projects!

Be Aware Of How Portland Cement Or Mortar
In Your Recipe Will React To Various Metals

I received a question from a crafter who had read my post about using hypertufa to skim coat vertical walls. She has a metal shed that she’d like to use the technqiue on and wondered if it would work in her situation.

I told her I’d found and saved some information years ago about this very issue and would post it. So … here it is. Anyone who works with a hypertufa or concrete recipe and uses a metal mold, or has something else made from metal that will be embedded into the ‘tufa or ‘crete needs to be aware of this information.

Aluminum
Embedded aluminum roof flashing, aluminum water stops, aluminum electrical conduit, introduced aluminum powder (sometimes used to foam concrete), or embedded structural aluminum shapes may all corrode in concrete or mortar. In all cases, a reaction that forms aluminum hydroxide and hydrogen gas occurs, and may cause expansion and cracking of the concrete or mortar. The common use of calcium chloride (or other alkali compounds), and dampness of the concrete increases the reaction rate. Usually, coating the aluminum with bituminous paint, impregnated paper or felt, plastic, or an alkali-resistant coating will prevent or sharply reduce the corrosion.

Copper
Copper embedded in concrete and/or mortar is usually roof flashing. Embedded copper is practically immune to reaction with corrosive alkalis, even if exposed to constant moisture. Copper will not react with dry, hardened concrete and/or mortar. Rainwater leaching, however, may bring chlorides in contact with the metal. Corrosion may occur and result in a green discoloration or runoff. Consequently, chloride admixtures should not be used in concrete if contact with copper is expected.

Lead
Lead will always corrode when in contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. The high pH from calcium hydroxide is the cause of the corrosion. Cured, seasoned concrete or mortar will not react with lead. Corrosion of embedded lead flashing in mortar joints will usually result in the production of a lead oxide, a white discoloration. A special case of lead corrosion, called differential aeration, occurs when a lead strip is partially embedded in concrete so that part of the strip is exposed to air. The embedded section has a different electrical potential than the section exposed to air. The result is that the strip will become polar in the presence of moisture. Gradual corrosion and disintegration of the embedded lead will then follow. In such a case, and in all other cases, the embedded portion should be coated with epoxy, varnish, asphalt, or pitch.

Zinc
Zinc is highly reactive with alkalies and will deteriorate to some degree upon contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. The reaction is limited due to a corrosive film that forms on the outer layer of the zinc. It protects the underlying metal from further reaction. Zinc will not react with dry, seasoned concrete and/or mortar. Embedded zinc will react with moisture and calcium hydroxide to produce calcium zincate. Zinc corrosion may also occur when galvanized iron, in the form of flat or corrugated sheets and rebar, comes in contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. Galvanized iron is coated with zinc, and will react with moisture and chlorides in the concrete and/or mortar to produce zinc chloride. The result is expansion and cracking of the concrete and/or mortar. The metal should be protected with epoxy, varnish, asphalt, or pitch.

Hypertufa or Concrete?
Will Peat Moss Be A Good Addition For My Recipe?

I received an email from Ya’aneh asking:

Hi, i would like to make a water fountain. Large bowl on the bottom, then smaller bowl in the middle and smaller one on top. Could you tell me the recipe for the right concrete to use? I was wondering if a peat moss one would work? Thank you. Ya’aneh

My reply:

Hello Ya’aneh:
Thank you for contacting me and I’ll be happy to answer your questions.

For a concrete recipe for your project, I would suggest you read over my web page that has a recipe that will certainly work well for you: ‘Thinwall’ Concrete Recipe.

I would NOT suggest you use a hypertufa recipe (hypertufa uses peat moss as one of the ingredients). Because the peat moss will decompose over time, leaving pits and crevices and you might end up with “leaks” in your cured fountains bowls. Use a concrete recipe for your fountain.

To easily view all the “how to” pages to help you be successful with your concrete or hypertufa projects, please refer to my Site Map page. Look at the “Concrete” and “Hypertufa” categories … there are many pages of helpful advice.

If you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Good luck with your project!