The-Artistic-Garden's Blog

D-I-Y Hypertufa Flagstone Project Questions

I received an email from a sweet lady named P.J. asking me about how doable a “large” DIY hypertufa flagstone project might be and I think lots of you can benefit from her questions and my answers. So here goes:

Hi Claudia,

I love your website and blog and I have been reading all your info about hypertufa but I have a few questions. I want to make a patio in my yard and I would like to use the flagstone or slate mold. I am a widow and I will be doing this myself.

I guess my question is can I do it myself? I know the regular stones are too heavy for me to lift by myself and thought that the hypertufa stones would be lighter. I live down in Southern Florida where we do not usually get any freezing so I don’t think that I have to worry about the cracking of the stone. How long will they last with people walking over them?

Would your e-book on hypertufa address making the patio stones? I love the look of slate or flagstones and I will be doing the work myself. I am quite handy at repairing & fixing things so I know I could do it if it will not be too heavy.

Thank you,
P.J.

My reply:

Hi P.J.:
Thank you for contacting me and for the kind compliment about my site.

To answer your questions, yes I am sure you can tackle a project making hypertufa flagstones if you are at least a mildly active person.

There isn’t anything that is going to be horribly difficult in the process, but I guess the biggest thing to consider is the weight of the bags of Portland cement and sand you’ll be having to take out of your vehicle and transport to your working area.

The bags are normally between 40lbs – 80lbs. Can you wrestle 80lbs of dead weight?? (It’s not as easy for me as it used to be, I must admit.)

Next, though you won’t have the need to mix up huge batches at one time – as I am going to guess you’ll only have a few molds that can be used at a time – be aware that the mixing up and blending can put a strain on one’s back. Lots of crafters will mix up everything in a wheel barrow to keep from having to bend way down to mix up everything. Or many folks rent a small concrete mixer – it all depends upon how many flagstones you’re going to have to make, to determine if the cost of the mixer rental is worth it.

Yes, the ‘tufa stones will be lighter, and over time the peat moss will decompose leaving a more natural looking stone – that is unless you want super smooth stones (with minimal texture) like real slate. Then I’d use a pure concrete recipe. No peat moss (which means you can’t call the recipe a hypertufa recipe).

As I teach on my website (and in my eBook) … IF the recipe ratios are correct; IF the mixing and application method is correct; and IF you allow the object to cure properly, then you ought to have stones that will last almost indefinitely. But I always advise that you do some test runs – and I think especially so for this project. Make a small batch; record the exact ratios; the curing time, etc. If you have success (or failure) with your test run, then you know you are either good to go with your project … or if you’ve had a failure … then it’s back to the drawing board!

I caution you to NOT attempt this project without first getting a real hands-on feel of what working with concrete and such is like. It can be a temperamental animal … but not so bad because thousands of people are successful all the time once they get the hang of ingredient ratios and proper curing methods. After all, hypertufa making is NOT rocket science!

Yes … my Hypertufa How-To eBook does go into much more depth on the subject of hypertufa, however I can tell you that for the project you are wanting to do, you’ll find everything you need to know for free on my site. (How is that for being honest and not trying to sell you my eBook?)

Your main decision is what recipe to use. I would suggest one that includes a bonding agent which will help add more strength. I don’t suggest using reinforcing fibers in your recipe for a variety of reasons – mostly to make the project easier for you. However … even one of the basic hypertufa recipes most likely will do fine, too. But make a test batch first!

To review all the hypertufa pages on my site, you can easily see all the pages listed under the “Hypertufa” sub-heading on my website’s directory page. Check out the different recipes and projects – I do have one for flagstones – and I know you’ll find one that will fill the bill for you.

Oh … I had another crafter who wanted to tackle a “make homemade flagstones for the patio” project tell me she bought nice flagstone molds on eBay. I think the the cost was around $100, but a deal when you consider how much you’ll save in the long run if you DIY and of course because the molds are reusable.

Does this information help? I hope so. Keep me posted. Good luck with your hypertufa flagstone project!

Claudia

A DIY Idea for Constructing a Wooden Garden Gate -
An Element of Functional Art for Your Garden

Hey everyone. I’ve had this photo in my files for some time now (yup – I save up photos as I stumble upon them if I think they’ll be of interest to y’all ) and am trying to clean up my “to be filed” folder. I decided to post this today because for a lot of us, the temperatures are dropping and Fall weather is starting to kick into gear, which means the leaves are starting to drop off the trees.

What’s that got to do with this wooden garden gate project? Well, seems to me having less leaves on tree branches will make it easier for you to spot some limbs you might be able to use for this DIY project.

I love everything about this wooden gate, which is found at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden in California. I have had a real interest for a long time in “functional art” – meaning artwork that also serves a “functional” purpose, such as would be the case *IF* this particular gate swung open and led somewhere.

Though this gate is certainly a piece of artwork on its own and it serves a definite purpose … it really can’t be considered “functional” because it doesn’t “function” (swing open and closed). But it is sculptural and serves as a beautiful and artistic focal point in this spot in the botanical garden.

Anyway, some garden art is functional, and some merely serves a visual decorative purpose. These painted ladybug bowling balls nestled amongst garden greenery are what we would consider simple garden art. But these gorgeous functional art examples created by my friend, artist-sculptor Alice M. Bateman, are not only visual “eye candy” but also serve a definite purpose. You’ll see a window; gates at an exhibit at the Ft. Worth Zoo; water spouts for a private pool; and a very fancy fireplace.

But let me get back to this wooden garden gate project idea … whether you make your gate to be functional – it swings open and closed and defines the entrance/exit to a specific area of your yard or garden – or merely to lend visual impact to a special spot is up to you, of course. But I’ll wager that whichever way you end up using a bentwood gate like this in your garden will certainly prove to be a lovely focal point in years to come.

To make a similar wooden gate for your garden as the one pictured here, you will obviously have to be somewhat skilled with wood working and have access to power saws and such, and know how to construct a sturdy frame on which to fasten the branches. Or … you’ll need to convince a spouse, relative or friend to help you make it. (Heck – bribe them with cookies or pizzas if necessary! ) The frame doesn’t appear to be too complicated, nor will I assume the task of attaching of the branches.

*TIP: use screws instead of nails if at all possible, as screws tend to “stay screwed in”, but nails tend to begin to start creeping up and out of where they were hammered in over time, especially with wooden items left outdoors. As example, have you ever seen wooden decks that were nailed versus screwed together? Well I have – my neighbor’s backyard deck – and it is starting to fall apart after just a few years. My deck was constructed using screws and it’s holding together quite fine, thank you!

I am sure that somehow, this photo of this really good-looking wooden gate might help to kick-in some creative juices for you, and you’ll come up with a way to make one for that special spot or entrance to your garden that you’ve been wanting to liven up.

I tried searching online for videos that show how to bend branches in case some of you might want to construct a wooden gate a little differently than the Botanical Garden’s gate which utilizes rather straight branches, but couldn’t find anything worthwhile to watch. But, I did uncover this book, that you might want to check out Making Bentwood Trellises, Arbors, Gates & Fences. It’s not too expensive and might have some good bits of information that will make your project go a little easier.

If anyone has any tips about working with bentwood or willow branches, let me know please. I’m sure many others reading this blog would like to read about more creative ways in which to make their own wooden garden gate. Thanks!

Those Whimpy (And Ugly!) Wire Tomato Cages
Really Aren’t Big Enough Or Strong Enough!

So let’s make good looking, sturdy and long lasting cages from copper tubing!

Right after I posted the Copper Trellis Project the other day, I received a nice email from Odile saying:

Hi Claudia,

I have been a subscriber to your Artistic Gardener newsletter and I just have to tell you how thrilled I am with all of the information you have compiled for all of us and to thank you! I am especially thrilled with this copper tubing newsletter that you sent today regarding a copper trellis.

I was wondering if you had any ideas for tomato “cages” that we could make using the copper tubing? My family and I will be growing lots of vegetables this summer, including tomatoes, and my husband mentioned that we would have to be getting some of those wire tee-pee looking tomato cages.

I think they are soooo ugly, and when I saw your newsletter today, a light bulb went off and I thought, what if we could make the cages out of the copper tubing? What do you think? Do you have any idea of the pieces we might use to make this?

Imagine how pretty the patina would be on a copper tomato cage, and how sturdy it would be, and it would probably last forever! I hate those green wire ones from the big box stores – they always bend! Any help you could provide would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Odile K. / Easton, MA

Yes I sure do have an idea for you Odile! I had to do some investigative work about easy-to-find copper parts and the right adhesives, but now I can share an idea that you all can use. This basic design is simple and plain, so I am sure many of you will think of creative ways to embellish or jazz-up your tomato cage.

I have to admit I just don’t have the time to actually construct this project. (Sorry.) So I will walk you through it. But! I discovered some online photos that show a PVC tomato cage designed by a gentleman named Tom, and his configuration is basically the same configuration I had first thought of. (Great minds think alike! )

**My idea was to use 4-way connectors on the top rung of tubing versus the T-connectors, so that you can have short cuts of tubing sticking up above the rung, to add a slight decorative “finish” to your cage.

But of course my brain was thinking about copper tubing. Anyway … I’ll get to Tom’s construction information in a moment.

Let’s Talk About The Parts You’ll Need To Round Up

Here is what you will need to know about parts and such to construct your cage from copper tubing:

• Use 1/2″ copper tubing – the 3/4″ is way more expensive and I think it’s not necessary to use 3/4″ for this project.
• You will use copper 90-degree connectors.
• You will probably have to use PVC 4-way connectors sized for 1/2-inch pipe because for most of us, copper 4-ways will be impossible to find at local stores.
• You will need to use this epoxy to glue everything because it will bond copper to PVC parts (yes – I called the factory to double check!): Super Glue’s Waterproof Epoxy Adhesive.
• Make sure you clean/scour off the oxidation on the copper tubing that will come into contact with the epoxy. The oxidation will most likely prevent a good adhesion of parts.
• Optional: copper end caps to finish off the tubing sticking up from the top rung (if you use the idea I came up with as mentioned above).
• Optional: you may want to invest in a $10 – $12 copper pipe cutter to make this project easier for you – especially if you’re making more than one cage. I think it is well worth the investment, even for one cage.

All of the copper tubing, copper parts, epoxy glue, and the PVC 4-ways are found in most big-box stores. Or of course a plumbing supply store – they might even carry the copper 4-ways, which will really make your cage spiffier looking.

About those white PVC 4-ways: yes, I know … they aren’t going to lend much visual impact to your gorgeous copper tomato cage, but as I have already explained, copper 4-ways are probably going to be near impossible for most of us to find. So here’s a thought about how to camouflage them … how about spray painting them a medium dark green or perhaps black. If you’re letting the copper oxidize (you won’t clear coat it) – it’ll become blueish/green anyway. So similar colored or darker colored 4-ways shouldn’t detract too much visually from the finished cage.

Or don’t worry about the white PVC, because ultimately you’re going to have a huge bushy tomato plant hiding most of the cage, anyway!

Step-By-Step Photos & Instructions To Build The Tomato Cage

Here’s where you’ll find the photos that will clearly show you how to go about this project: Tom’s PVC tomato cage. You will find the instructions there also, but I am taking the liberty to provide an abbreviated version here:

So there you have it everyone – a darn good way to make a not-too-complicated DIY copper tomato trellis. And perhaps you’ll want to make yours completely out of PVC, because you don’t mind white supports around your tomatoes, or because it will be a more affordable project to tackle.

Either way, good luck … I sure hope you have great tastin’ tomatoes this summer!

The-Artistic-Garden disclaimer: I have tried without success to find a way to contact Mr. Matkey to ask permission to refer to his project. I have done my best to give him full credit for, and to link directly to his project information. Mr. Matkey if you are reading this please contact me. Thank you.

Say Goodbye To Toxic DEET Bug Sprays
And Hello To A Safe Homemade Repellent

Here in my part of of the USA, it’s time for the moquitoes to start rearing their ugly little heads. As a matter of fact, I got my first bite two days ago, while being outside ONLY ONE MINUTE to empty my kitchen scraps into the compost bin!

I don’t know about you, but my whole life I’ve been a magnet for mosquitoes. They choose me first to bite over anyone else standing close to me. The bigger irritation (not to make a pun) is that I’m quite allergic to their bites, so not only does each bite turn into a large angry red bump, but it also makes me suffer for weeks – 3 at least! And the itching! Let’s say I hate mosquitoes!

But all this being said, I also dislike spraying myself with smelly repellents. I also don’t like the idea of spraying myself with something toxic like DEET. Though the active ingredient in most bug sprays, N, N-diethyl-meta-toluamide, or DEET, has been shown to be effective, it has also come under fire in recent years by health researchers. (Learn more.)

So, what does a person like me do? Fortunately with consumer awareness becoming what it has these past few years, over-the-counter repellents with natural, non-toxic ingredients are becoming more and more available.

Or, there are very effective do-it-yourself concoctions that many folks swear by. So, today I thought I’d share these homemade natural repellents that a family member and a neighbor use and say work very well. But you be the judge.

One important thing you have to remember is that with any natural repellent you need to find what works with your body chemistry. What most people do not realize is that each person’s body has its own unique chemistry make-up and you have to find the mix of natural stuff that will work on you.

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Essential Oil Repellent Recipe

1-1/4 tsp. Rose geranium oil
1-1/4 tsp. Citronella oil
1 Cup 190-proof grain alcohol

The essential oils can be found in health food stores; the grain alcohol can be purchased in a liquor store.

Place ingredients in a jar with a tight fitting lid and shake well. Fill a small spray bottle (such as the 4 oz. travel size bottles you can find at drug stores or Wal-Mart) and spray yourself, and your clothes if desired. **Make sure to first test the oils on your skin to make sure you won’t an irritation.

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Rubbing Alcohol

Yup! Plain old rubbing alcohol splashed or sprayed on your body will supposedly stop mosquitoes from biting. I have a neighbor who swears by this one. No bad smell and really cheap to use, too.

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I have read of one or a combination of these oils doing a very good job at repelling mosquitoes. But again remember – you might have to experiment some to see which oils “work” with your body chemistry.

Essential Oils: Basil, Cedarwood, Citronella, Clove, Eucalyptus, Juniper, Lavender, Lemon, Myrrh, Palmarosa, Pine, Rose geranium, Rosemary, Tea Tree

Carrier Oils: Almond, Jojoba, Olive, Soybean

Mix in a ratio of 1-part essential oil to 10-parts carrier oil or grain alcohol.

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I’m going to try the Essentail Oil Recipe this year. I’ll let you know if it works for me. If you have a tried-and-true homemade mosquito repellent you’d like to tell us about, please leave a comment. I’d appreciate it!