Oct 17 2009

Woman Wields Welding Torch To Make Garden Art

Metal Garden Art Fish Welded by an Alaskan Female Gardener – You Go Girl!

I love it when I see women break away from fearing heavy-duty type industrial equipment like welding torches! Yeah, I don’t care what is said about “we’ve come a long way, baby!” in terms of women’s lib (is that terminology dating me, or what?? Yes … I did march up 5th Avenue in NYC many moons ago, screaming “What do we want”? Equality! When do we want it? NOW!!!” But I digress…) I find that many woman are still very hesitant to pick up anything more menacing than a paint brush.

Anyway, I came across an article by an Alaskan gardener, Christine who shared her experience in picking up a welding torch and making these cool rusty metal fish.

garden-art-fish

I thought you all just might get some inspiration to try your hand at a new way of creating garden art items – whether or not your tool of choice is a welding torch. It could be anything, even something like picking up a sponge to try your hand at daubing to very easily create a decorative paint technique on a pot to use outdoors. Let your creative juices flow! It’s fun to try new things. You might find a new hobby, too.

You never know … you might gain a passion for something that allows you to give really personalized gifts to friends and family to grace their gardens (and they’ll always remember you when they look at what you made), or maybe this new hobby you enjoy could turn into a side income for you. Hey – who knows?

Anyway, as I always say “Remember … Have Fun!” ;)


Oct 12 2009

Wooden Garden Gate Idea Using Large Branches

A DIY Idea for Constructing a Wooden Garden Gate -
An Element of Functional Art for Your Garden

Hey everyone. I’ve had this photo in my files for some time now (yup – I save up photos as I stumble upon them if I think they’ll be of interest to y’all ;) ) and am trying to clean up my “to be filed” folder. I decided to post this today because for a lot of us, the temperatures are dropping and Fall weather is starting to kick into gear, which means the leaves are starting to drop off the trees.

What’s that got to do with this wooden garden gate project? Well, seems to me having less leaves on tree branches will make it easier for you to spot some limbs you might be able to use for this DIY project.

Wooden garden gate at Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden

I love everything about this wooden gate, which is found at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden in California. I have had a real interest for a long time in “functional art” – meaning artwork that also serves a “functional” purpose, such as would be the case *IF* this particular gate swung open and led somewhere.

Though this gate is certainly a piece of artwork on its own and it serves a definite purpose … it really can’t be considered “functional” because it doesn’t “function” (swing open and closed). But it is sculptural and serves as a beautiful and artistic focal point in this spot in the botanical garden.

Anyway, some garden art is functional, and some merely serves a visual decorative purpose. These painted ladybug bowling balls nestled amongst garden greenery are what we would consider simple garden art. But these gorgeous functional art examples created by my friend, artist-sculptor Alice M. Bateman, are not only visual “eye candy” but also serve a definite purpose. You’ll see a window; gates at an exhibit at the Ft. Worth Zoo; water spouts for a private pool; and a very fancy fireplace.

But let me get back to this wooden garden gate project idea … whether you make your gate to be functional – it swings open and closed and defines the entrance/exit to a specific area of your yard or garden – or merely to lend visual impact to a special spot is up to you, of course. But I’ll wager that whichever way you end up using a bentwood gate like this in your garden will certainly prove to be a lovely focal point in years to come.

To make a similar wooden gate for your garden as the one pictured here, you will obviously have to be somewhat skilled with wood working and have access to power saws and such, and know how to construct a sturdy frame on which to fasten the branches. Or … you’ll need to convince a spouse, relative or friend to help you make it. (Heck – bribe them with cookies or pizzas if necessary! :D ) The frame doesn’t appear to be too complicated, nor will I assume the task of attaching of the branches.

*TIP: use screws instead of nails if at all possible, as screws tend to “stay screwed in”, but nails tend to begin to start creeping up and out of where they were hammered in over time, especially with wooden items left outdoors. As example, have you ever seen wooden decks that were nailed versus screwed together? Well I have – my neighbor’s backyard deck – and it is starting to fall apart after just a few years. My deck was constructed using screws and it’s holding together quite fine, thank you!

I am sure that somehow, this photo of this really good-looking wooden gate might help to kick-in some creative juices for you, and you’ll come up with a way to make one for that special spot or entrance to your garden that you’ve been wanting to liven up.

xxx I tried searching online for videos that show how to bend branches in case some of you might want to construct a wooden gate a little differently than the Botanical Garden’s gate which utilizes rather straight branches, but couldn’t find anything worthwhile to watch. But, I did uncover this book, that you might want to check out Making Bentwood Trellises, Arbors, Gates & Fences. It’s not too expensive and might have some good bits of information that will make your project go a little easier.

If anyone has any tips about working with bentwood or willow branches, let me know please. I’m sure many others reading this blog would like to read about more creative ways in which to make their own wooden garden gate. Thanks!


Jul 4 2009

Tips For Repairing Broken Terra Cotta, Clay, Or Concrete Garden Art Items

Helpful Tips To Ensure More Successful Repairs

I received an email the other day from garden art friend Louisa G. who was kind enough to share some very helpful ideas pertaining to repairing broken garden art items (or anything else you might have around the house that needs to be stuck back together, for that matter).

Whether you are using a “super” type glue, epoxy glue, or even concrete or hypertufa to try and reattach a piece or pieces that got broken off a favorite decorative item, these tips just might help make your repair come out even better than you’d hoped for.

Tips for more successful garden art repairs I think you’ll agree that often the challenge in doing a repair is trying to hold together the part(s) that need to be glued back on. Many times we cannot use fast-acting glues, and wait times for other type glues or adhesive’s (or ‘tufa or concrete’s) hardening/cure times may be 15 minutes on up to hours.

This is often the biggest challenge … how to keep the pieces stuck together AND how to achieve the most “invisible” repair possible.

I will agree it is frustrating to make a repair, only to find out the piece shifted ever so slightly, and though yes … you’ve been successful at sticking the item back together, it is now obvious that indeed there was damage that had occurred to it!

So … here’s Louisa’s great tips:

Here’s some easy ways I’ve found to keep odd-shaped pieces together while waiting for repairs to cure:

Obtain some NON DRYING modeling clay (something like Sculpey or other art clays that won’t dry out in a short time) and mold release to go with it. Sometimes (not always) mineral oil can be used. You would want to test this prior to going forward.

BEFORE GLUING: Put the repairs in position (you may need a helper to hold the pieces in place) and mold the clay – be generous – around your area of repair such that you can remove it easily. This may require more than one or two sections that will later be smooshed together.

Remove the clay and clean off any residue, then glue the repair as needed.

LIGHTLY apply the mold release agent and then place the prepared modeling clay around the repair – blend and smoosh separate sections of the modeling clay together GENTLY so that you don’t dislodge the repaired pieces. Wait for it to cure.

Other options:

–Spring clamps or C-clamps with toweling or other padding
–Rubber bands
–Bungee cords
–Binder clips (for smaller items)

There you have it!

Thanks Louisa for taking the time to share these tips with everyone!

To read my informative article about different methods to glue or wire broken pots back together, please go to Terra Cotta Repair Methods.


May 28 2009

Do-It-Yourself Tomato Cage – Make One With Copper Tubing

Those Whimpy (And Ugly!) Wire Tomato Cages
Really Aren’t Big Enough Or Strong Enough!

So let’s make good looking, sturdy and long lasting cages from copper tubing!

Right after I posted the Copper Trellis Project the other day, I received a nice email from Odile saying:

Hi Claudia,

I have been a subscriber to your Artistic Gardener newsletter and I just have to tell you how thrilled I am with all of the information you have compiled for all of us and to thank you! I am especially thrilled with this copper tubing newsletter that you sent today regarding a copper trellis.

I was wondering if you had any ideas for tomato “cages” that we could make using the copper tubing? My family and I will be growing lots of vegetables this summer, including tomatoes, and my husband mentioned that we would have to be getting some of those wire tee-pee looking tomato cages.

I think they are soooo ugly, and when I saw your newsletter today, a light bulb went off and I thought, what if we could make the cages out of the copper tubing? What do you think? Do you have any idea of the pieces we might use to make this?

Imagine how pretty the patina would be on a copper tomato cage, and how sturdy it would be, and it would probably last forever! I hate those green wire ones from the big box stores – they always bend! Any help you could provide would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Odile K. / Easton, MA

T. Matkey tomato cage Yes I sure do have an idea for you Odile! I had to do some investigative work about easy-to-find copper parts and the right adhesives, but now I can share an idea that you all can use. This basic design is simple and plain, so I am sure many of you will think of creative ways to embellish or jazz-up your tomato cage.

I have to admit I just don’t have the time to actually construct this project. (Sorry.) So I will walk you through it. But! I discovered some online photos that show a PVC tomato cage designed by a gentleman named Tom, and his configuration is basically the same configuration I had first thought of. (Great minds think alike! :D )

**My idea was to use 4-way connectors on the top rung of tubing versus the T-connectors, so that you can have short cuts of tubing sticking up above the rung, to add a slight decorative “finish” to your cage.

But of course my brain was thinking about copper tubing. Anyway … I’ll get to Tom’s construction information in a moment.

Let’s Talk About The Parts You’ll Need To Round Up

Here is what you will need to know about parts and such to construct your cage from copper tubing:

  • Use 1/2″ copper tubing – the 3/4″ is way more expensive and I think it’s not necessary to use 3/4″ for this project.
  • You will use copper 90-degree connectors.
  • You will probably have to use PVC 4-way connectors sized for 1/2-inch pipe because for most of us, copper 4-ways will be impossible to find at local stores.
  • You will need to use this epoxy to glue everything because it will bond copper to PVC parts (yes – I called the factory to double check!): Super Glue’s Waterproof Epoxy Adhesive.
  • Make sure you clean/scour off the oxidation on the copper tubing that will come into contact with the epoxy. The oxidation will most likely prevent a good adhesion of parts.
  • Optional: copper end caps to finish off the tubing sticking up from the top rung (if you use the idea I came up with as mentioned above).
  • Optional: you may want to invest in a $10 – $12 copper pipe cutter to make this project easier for you – especially if you’re making more than one cage. I think it is well worth the investment, even for one cage.

All of the copper tubing, copper parts, epoxy glue, and the PVC 4-ways are found in most big-box stores. Or of course a plumbing supply store – they might even carry the copper 4-ways, which will really make your cage spiffier looking.

About those white PVC 4-ways: yes, I know … they aren’t going to lend much visual impact to your gorgeous copper tomato cage, but as I have already explained, copper 4-ways are probably going to be near impossible for most of us to find. So here’s a thought about how to camouflage them … how about spray painting them a medium dark green or perhaps black. If you’re letting the copper oxidize (you won’t clear coat it) – it’ll become blueish/green anyway. So similar colored or darker colored 4-ways shouldn’t detract too much visually from the finished cage.

Or don’t worry about the white PVC, because ultimately you’re going to have a huge bushy tomato plant hiding most of the cage, anyway! ;)

Step-By-Step Photos & Instructions To Build The Tomato Cage

Here’s where you’ll find the photos that will clearly show you how to go about this project: Tom’s PVC tomato cage. You will find the instructions there also, but I am taking the liberty to provide an abbreviated version here:

… I use schedule 40, 3/4 inch PVC irrigation pipe. 1/2 inch is too flimsy.

The uprights are 30 inches long with the bottom ones sunk into the ground about 12 inches. The next section is also 30 inches high. The final section is 24 inches high. I chose 30 inches because that way you get 4 uprights from each 10-foot section of PVC pipe. The top tier in my setup is 24 inches because any higher and you couldn’t easily reach the top. Besides, the eaves of the house get in the way.

The tiers are made up of 8 seven and one-quarter inch long pieces. Don’t ask me how I came up with 7 1/4 inches. It just works out that way given the space I have available. In fact, 8 inches would work out perfectly to get 15 lengths from a 10-foot piece of pipe if you had the space. It could even be larger if you have the room.

I also use crossover connectors, right angle connectors and Tee connectors.

[When using all PVC parts] Do not glue them. It isn’t necessary, and if you glue them, you can’t take them apart for expansion or storage for the winter.

As a guide for the spacing of the verticals in the ground, I put together one of the squares using the crossover sections. I put that down on the ground. Then I push a stake (or a pencil or a chopstick) through the connector into the ground and that gives you the exact spot to sink the vertical pieces. I drive them into the ground about 12 inches. That makes them pretty stable.

To drive the uprights in the ground, I use a 1-ΒΌ inch piece of galvanized pipe with a cap threaded on one end. Slide the pipe over the upright and pound them into the ground. With my uprights, an 18-inch piece of pipe was perfect. Keep pounding until the bottom of the pipe touches the ground and each upright is exactly the same height. Having the exactly the same height avoids problems fitting the first square.

… You can use a hammer and a block of wood or a rubber hammer to drive them in. I did for years. Then I discovered the pipe thing. It’s takes away the possibility of breaking the pipe, they seem to go in straighter (did I mention you need to drive them in very straight?) and it’s just plain easier.

If you go this route, buy a PVC cutter. Much easier than using a hand saw. If you are already lucky enough to have a power chop saw, a radial arm saw or a table saw, that works even better.

Also make sure all the parts are exactly the same length. Mine weren’t and sometimes things didn’t fit all that well. Last winter’s project was to make each one exactly the same length. It’s much easier to fit together when they’re all the same size. ~~T. Matkey

So there you have it everyone – a darn good way to make a not-too-complicated DIY copper tomato trellis. And perhaps you’ll want to make yours completely out of PVC, because you don’t mind white supports around your tomatoes, or because it will be a more affordable project to tackle.

Either way, good luck … I sure hope you have great tastin’ tomatoes this summer! ;)

The-Artistic-Garden disclaimer: I have tried without success to find a way to contact Mr. Matkey to ask permission to refer to his project. I have done my best to give him full credit for, and to link directly to his project information. Mr. Matkey if you are reading this please contact me. Thank you.