The-Artistic-Garden's Blog

Where Can I Find Recipes & Instructions
To Make An Aged Looking Trough?

I received this email from Stephen who asked:

Dear Artistic Gardener: This is from Sheffield England. Please could you advise me on the “wooden former”, concrete mix, possible wall thickness and dimensions and possible type of chicken wire as strengthener to make a concrete “aged type trough”?

I am referring to what was used as animal water troughs in England long ago. I want to make mine to hold plants. Yours sincerely,
Stephen

My reply:

Hello Stephen:

Thank you for contacting me. I believe the information you want can be found on the 4 Basic Hypertufa Recipes page and the instructions for How To Make A Hypertufa Trough.

I guess you overlooked that information on my site. I have many more pages of information that will be of interest to you about working with hypertufa.

Please go to my main hypertufa page. And then go all the way to the bottom of the page – you’ll see links to all the other pages of information. Note that the very last link is how to age troughs with moss.

I sure hope this helps. Good luck with your project. 

Does Interior Of A Sphere Need To Be Sealed For Planting?

I received an email from Michelle asking:

Thanks for all the info you provide on your website. I’m presently making a hollow hypertufa sphere. Once it is done and I’ve sealed the exterior surface, I’d like to put some soil inside and plant something. Does the interior of the sphere need to be sealed?

My reply:

Hi again Michelle:

No, you do not have to seal the interior of a sphere to plant inside of it. Please be aware however that a ‘tufa object must be completely cured before you can plant in it.

Portland cement is very alkaline and will do a very good job of killing anything you plant in your new hypertufa object. So, you have to make sure you’ve leached out the plant-killing lime completely.

Please refer to my curing instructions on this page: Curing Hypertufa & Concrete. You’ll be good to go if you follow the advice. 

Good luck with your projects!

Tips When Adding A New Layer Of Wet ‘Tufa
Over A Dried Layer

I received an email from Regina who asked:

Can we add fresh hypertufa to an existing, partially cured layer that also has a few cracks on the top half? And should we use bonding agent? Thank you, Regina

My reply:

Hi Regina:

Yes you sure can … it is advisable to dampen the existing ‘tufa, then paint on the bonding agent and then add your fresh ‘tufa. Many crafters certainly will also add some bonding agent into the new hypertufa. Just make sure to adjust your liquid ratio accordingly.

And please know that the cracks you are getting aren’t a “bad” thing … in projects like large spheres, you will almost invariably get cracks. And that’s OK. That is why most people figure on doing at least 2 layers.

Hope this helps. Sounds like you are having some success now  Keep me posted.

Hypertufa Project Tips
Is It Possible To Hasten The Cure Time For Hypertufa??

I received an email from Beth who asked:

I am just beginning in learning hypertufa, actually in the process of collecting my ingredients to get started. Anyway I have read a mixture of vinegar and water would speed up the curing process. Any truth to that or is it better just to wait the 30 days for the curing? Also how safe is it to handle once it has cured? Many thanks! Beth

My reply:

Hi Beth:
I have addressed the vinegar issue on my webpage: Hypertufa Curing Guidelines (look at the very bottom) and personally I wouldn’t use vinegar.

Most successful ‘tufa makers use good ‘ol water to leach out the lime. Refer to the information in my curing page and you’ll do just fine!

Also, hypertufa is safe to handle after a proper cure.

Good luck with your project!

Hypertufa or Concrete?
Will Peat Moss Be A Good Addition For My Recipe?

I received an email from Ya’aneh asking:

Hi, i would like to make a water fountain. Large bowl on the bottom, then smaller bowl in the middle and smaller one on top. Could you tell me the recipe for the right concrete to use? I was wondering if a peat moss one would work? Thank you. Ya’aneh

My reply:

Hello Ya’aneh:
Thank you for contacting me and I’ll be happy to answer your questions.

For a concrete recipe for your project, I would suggest you read over my web page that has a recipe that will certainly work well for you: ‘Thinwall’ Concrete Recipe.

I would NOT suggest you use a hypertufa recipe (hypertufa uses peat moss as one of the ingredients). Because the peat moss will decompose over time, leaving pits and crevices and you might end up with “leaks” in your cured fountains bowls. Use a concrete recipe for your fountain.

To easily view all the “how to” pages to help you be successful with your concrete or hypertufa projects, please refer to my Site Map page. Look at the “Concrete” and “Hypertufa” categories … there are many pages of helpful advice.

If you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Good luck with your project! 

I Want To Daub Paint A Concrete Water Fountain …

I received this email from Steve who asked:

Hi you have a great web site. I am planning on daubing/painting a large water fountain. Can you tell me what kind of paint I should use. The fountain is made of concrete. And what method would you use for this project. Thanks Steve

My reply:

Hi Steve:
Thank you for contacting me and for the kind compliment. I do try to “over deliver” information for my visitors.

About painting your water fountain, I can offer some helpful hints, with these two being VERY important:

   -Make sure that the concrete is DRY before you even think of picking up a brush!! One little bit of moisture in the concrete will cause the paint to peel on-up-the-road; and
   -You can use latex paints or oil-based paints and even stains.

**For the best all-inclusive info I can offer you, please go to this page on my website Colorant Guides and look about half-way down for the 3rd content box that says “Read the Colorant Guides”. Click on the PDF icon to open up the guides.

Refer to the 2nd page of the PDF guide and you’ll have every question answered about all the ins and outs of the different way to color concrete. Feel free to print out a copy for yourself.

As far as the method of application … what kind of “look” are you trying to achieve?? (You didn’t say.) A mottled effect? (then sure you could just daub on color with an old sponge or even a wadded up rag); or your could use a brush to daub on layers of color; or do you want it to look like marble? … then refer to this webpage: Faux Verdigris Painted Technique

If you just want a solid color, then I’d probably just brush on the color.

Don’t forget to allow your painted or stained technique to dry well; then apply at least 3 top coats of clear finish to help protect the paint and to help make it last longer and let it dry thoroughly, and then you should be “good to go”!! 

I hope this helps you. If you have more detailed questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me again. I wish you lots of luck with this project!!

A Budding Concrete Sculptor Asks Some Questions

I received two emails from Eugen who asked (please note English is not his primary language  it isn’t because he is such a bad typist!):

I have a question – where from peat moss , and if that could be replaced by another material wayting for your suggestions, thank you in advance, yours, eugen

and …

I also find your site very interesting I’m a doctor gp pasioned by sculpture, I intent to build( create) few large statues in my garden with concrete, but still didn’t found some clear overview about waterproof methods. If you have any valid ideas about this, please answer me. Thank you again, eugen

My reply:

Hello Eugen:
Thank you very much for contacting me and as I received two emails from you, I will be happy to try and answer all questions here. Also, please appreciate I am doing my best to understand your questions, as your English is obviously not your native language (I mean no disrespect to you by saying this). It is just that I want to do my best to help you. 

You ask: “where from peat moss … and could it be replaced ….”

#1) Alright, if you are asking me where you can FIND or PURCHASE peat moss, here in the USA it is very easily purchased in garden supply stores. It comes in a compressed square-ish shaped “bale”, and is normally used as a soil amendment for garden beds. Since I do not know what country you live in, I cannot be more helpful at this time. The type of peat moss used for hypertufa recipes is sphagnum peat moss.

#2) “can it be replaced” …. NO. Hypertufa is not hypertufa unless it has peat moss as an ingredient. Any other type of cement based recipe (as hypertufa is), will be a concrete recipe … not a hypertufa recipe. But, that being said, I have a recipe on my site that utilizes coir in place of peat moss. Please refer to: Hypertufa Recipe Using Coir

#3) Or you can use plain soil as a replacement (note there is no perlite in this recipe): Garden Stepping Stones Recipe

Next, you ask about waterproofing methods for concrete statues. Why? As I am sure you are aware, if your recipe is prepared correctly, and you cure your sculpture properly, it should last a life time. However, if you wish to waterproof it as you are wanting part of your sculpture to be a water basin, as example, or maybe you want your sculpture to attain a glossy appearance, then here in the USA I would go to a store that sells cement supplies, and purchase a concrete sealant. Just make sure what you purchase says “Waterproof” as opposed to “Water Resistant”. You should apply at least 2 coats, 3 or more is better.

Or, here is a technique I have pulled from my files for you: For items such as birdbaths and such that will be constantly holding water, instead of using expensive and often questionable sealers…finish just the “bowl” portion of the item with modified cement. Plain old concrete does a pretty good job of holding water, but you can easily take it to the next level by mixing up batch of pure, neat Portland (no sand) and polymer admix to coat that area.

It can be plain gray, pure white (white Portland) or colored using integral color. You can even get a marbleized effect using multiple colors. Poly-modified cement is extremely dense and about as watertight as you can get. It can be visually interesting too since the surface can be as smooth as glass (with a little sanding & polishing) or textured to your taste. It bonds very well to lightly textured concrete. As an added measure, apply a light coat of Carnauba wax and buff it just to finish it off.

So … are these answers of help to you? Please do not hesitate to contact me for further clarification or help if needed.

Also, if you have not reviewed the stain and colorant information, please do. It is the best available on the internet, and though the brands mentioned may not be available in your country (or are you living here in the USA??), the application methods, etc. is valuable information: Colorant Charts For Hypertufa & Concrete

Good luck! I wish you much success with your sculpture project

Can I float a mortar sphere in water?
How long will it last?

I received an email from Michelle asking:

I have made a hollow large (exercise ball size) sphere using a thin-set polymer-fortified mortar. Once the sphere is sealed, can it be placed in a pond – how long would it last? I’d love to see it float

My reply:

Hi Michelle:
About a floating sphere: I have no personal experience in doing this. However, if I were doing this, I would do a number of coats of sealant to be super-sure that it was sealed well, which I will assume would help with the longevity of the sphere lasting longer.

Please read my information about curing hypertufa and concrete, as you do not want to put uncured hypertufa/mortar/concrete into a pond. It could harm your fish and/or plants.